Recreating the magic of the bygone age of steam is a task which preserved railways fulfil in many ways, from using period locomotives and carriages to restoring appropriate signalling and authentic station buildings. However, one of my favourite ways to take in a preserved railway is on board a steam dining train: I don't think there is any better way to travel, except maybe on the footplate! Tonight we were booked aboard the Bluebell Railway's lavish 'Golden Arrow' Pullman train and what a delight it was. I had been given vouchers towards this experience for Christmas the year before last but, with the Bluebell nestling down on the South coast, we'd only just found the chance to use them! Having made our first visit to this pioneer preserved railway during the day and ridden behind S15 No847, we returned to our hotel to freshen up and prepare for our evening out. The Pullman departure was scheduled for 19:30, with diners advised to arrive at least 30 minutes prior.
The Bluebell's 'Golden Arrow' is a salute to the famous boat train which ran between London Victoria and Dover for the Southern Railway. Passengers would leave the Pullman train at Dover in readiness for their ferry crossing to Calais in France. The service was introduced in 1929 and survived until 1972, by which time it was electric hauled. We arrived at a drizzly Sheffield Park station at just before 19:00 and, having had our tickets checked, wandered out onto the quiet platform where the train of immaculate Pullman cars awaited us...
The train was made up of four vehicles: two Pullman's, a BR Mk1 restaurant car and an interesting 1938-built LMS three-axle BGZ. "Fingall" and "Christine" are the Pullman cars, built in 1924 and 1928 respectively. When you book for the 'Golden Arrow' you can choose your coach, subject to availability. We rode aboard the North York Moors Railway's fabulous 'Grosmont Pullman' the summer before last and had travelled in a 'proper' Pullman then: Car No79. We enjoyed the opulent experience and so I decided to book "Fingall" for tonight. She is a First Class Kitchen car, originally built for the Yorkshire Pullman. The furnishings looked incredibly elegant as we peered through the window on this wet and windy night...
Somewhere around the yard our locomotive for the evening was shuffling about but we didn't initially see her. Soon enough, with preparations made, the waiting staff: all clad in sparkling white uniforms: appeared at the doorways of their respective coaches. We joined "Fingall" and were led through the immaculate coach to our table...
Our lamp-lit table for two was perfectly set for the evening of fine dining ahead...
Right on time, with a full compliment of expectant diners, the 19:30 'Golden Arrow' moved away from Sheffield Park in a cloud of steam. Leaving the light of the station behind the train moved into the darkness of the Sussex countryside on route to Kingscote via Horsted Keynes. The starter: a tasty soup: was served on this outward leg as we enjoyed the ambience over a pleasant bottle of Merlot. Please don't take any of this as our usual lifestyle: we live like Kings but only occasionally! The locomotive laboured the train up to Kingscote before running past our window and onto the rear of the stock. We then returned to Sheffield Park whilst the main course was served. The hearty roast beef with all the trimmings was just what the doctor ordered...
For the second round trip of the evening the locomotive made the full 11-mile run to East Grinstead, by which time we'd enjoyed our desserts and our frivolous cheese board. Some diners alighted at the Bluebell terminus before the engine ran round and continued the final run back to Sheffield Park through the damp gloom. Myself and Maisie sat at our table stuffed beyond belief. What a wonderful meal and another great experience, enjoyed in full Pullman luxury with service to savour. All too soon however it was time to leave our steam heated haven and head out into the rain, watched off the train by the still immaculate waiting staff. Our locomotive was simmering in the rain outside. She was SECR O1 Class 0-6-0 No65 of 1896-vintage; a venerable old lady and the sole survivor of a class of 122...
It had been a pleasure to listen to the 18" cylinders on this fine old machine working away for the evening hauling our train. You also need to have respect for the crew, travelling tender first on a foul night like this! Overall the Bluebell's 'Golden Arrow' offered another fantastic experience: great food, great service and Pullman Car's from an age of opulence long since gone. We enjoyed everything about it and would definitely recommend it. Thank you all for reading. Until next time, Sam...
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