Sunday 2 April 2023

Steam In Barbados: St Nicholas Abbey...

We've all got a to do list of places we'd like to visit if the opportunity ever arose. Some we'll get to one day, others we never will. Today I finally got to tick one of those places off my list with a visit to the wonderful St Nicholas Abbey and its heritage steam railway. Located in Saint Peter on the northern side of the island of Barbados, St Nicholas Abbey is a museum showcasing a plantation house and a rum distillery producing fine Barbadian rum. How did you come to hear of this place I hear you ask? Well, a few years ago the owners of the site decided to add a new attraction to the venue: a steam railway. Due to the sugar history of the site it was decided to lay a railway of 2ft 6" gauge, as this was a common choice for overseas sugar lines. Statfold Barn at the time still had some 2ft 6" stock and SNA chose Statfold Engineering to provide the restoration for their chosen locomotive. The company was also tasked with the production of the three passenger coaches which were built for the new railway. 

Naturally, with all of this going on at Statfold, the name St Nicholas Abbey soon became well known to us and research began. As our two week cruise gave us a spare day in Barbados right in the middle, we decided that we couldn't come this close and not visit the abbey. Thankfully I managed to persuade our group to tag along and this morning we rode across in a taxi for a visit to the site. Having been dropped off by our taxi we were a little early for our booked 11:30 train ride and so decided to have a look around the wonderful grounds and abbey on this lovely day...
The great house: once the home of the original plantation owners: dates back to 1658 and is a beautiful piece of architecture. Under the blue Barbadian skies it really looked a picture. This view is featured on the venues logo...
A shot of the dining room, set out in the style of the period...
After touring the great house and learning about the former and current owners of the site, we wandered back towards the railway station in order to arrive in good time for our ride. The locomotive for the day: "Winston": was taking water...
The station was designed by SNA owner and renowned architect Larry Warren and is an impressive construction considering it has all been built from scratch in recent years! Visitors are welcomed to the station and tickets are collected before passengers are invited to board the waiting coaches beneath the station canopy...
The SNAHR has a 1914-built Jung Mallet as its flagship locomotive. I remember Tjepper No5 as it awaited restoration in the roundhouse at Statfold. It was later chosen to be the SNAHRs main locomotive and was restored by Statfold Engineering prior to export. Later, as traffic dictated, a second steam locomotive was acquired. This engine (running today) is also familiar to me, having previously been owned by Statfold. "Winston" is an 0-4-0 La Meuse tank engine, built by the Belgian firm in 1926. Being 2ft 6" gauge, both the Jung and the La Meuse seemed destined for a life on display after the line of the same gauge at Statfold was removed. Happily, both were selected for a new life in steam in Barbados. I saw the La Muese run once I think during my time at Statfold, but that's only a vague memory. Today the tank engine looked immaculate as she stood waiting for the 11:30 departure to Cherry Tree Hill...
I got chatting to the friendly crew as they took in some shade between trips. The driver said he preferred the larger Mallet, the fireman (Tyrone) preferred "Winston". Both were full of praise for both locomotives, and indeed Statfold. I was intrigued to see how the La Meuse would get on on the steep gradients. Tyrone said that it had had a boiler retube and some new piston rings since being in Barbados and was now a good performer. The air tanks on the cab back sheet were also a new addition as they weren't fitted when it ran at Statfold from memory. The station cat wasn't impressed by the queuing passengers disturbing her Siesta whilst we awaited boarding...
A closer view of the air reservoirs used (I guess) to store air for braking...
Right on time, the 0-4-0 gave a pop on her chime whistle before we set off towards Cherry Tree Hill. Having hissed out of the station, the train banked to the right before starting the climb. The La Meuse took it all in her stride...
The bottom of the railway rounds a lake before climbing towards a triangle which brings you onto a single line section through an impressive cutting...
The exhaust of the engine as she plodded up the gradient was pleasant to listen to as we chugged through the cutting. At Cherry Tree Hill the train came to a stand in the platform before "Winston" was detached for turning...
Cherry Tree Hill station has a platform, turntable and run round loop. Outside the station is a lovely viewpoint across towards the ocean and there were also some stallholders selling Barbados souvenirs. The view was quite breathtaking...
"Winston" meanwhile had been recoupled to the other end of the stock. As George Formby sang, "when we shunt, the back's in front and the front part's in the rear". Whilst the engine waited for the rest of her passengers to return, there was the opportunity for photographs and to visit the footplate of course...
Today was a warm day. Well, it was for us, maybe not in Barbados. Tyrone invited us to stand on the footplate and, my god, I couldn't do this all day! It's fine in the UK but not in the heat of a Barbados afternoon! On a narrow gauge engine like this with no lagging on the doorplate and no sunroof it was absolutely sweltering. I have massive respect for Tyrone and his driver for standing on this all day in full overalls...
Of course we grabbed a few snaps for the memories. I doubt we'll get here again!...
"Sam and Adam on the footplate" (Pic - E.Parker)
Soon the train staff were calling for us to rejoin the coaches for the departure back to the main station. Once all passengers had boarded, off we went...
The run back is a little quieter as the engine is mainly coasting down the gradient. At the triangle the train was routed to the left this time, heading back into the station passing the engine shed approach. Outside the shed stood one of the three diesel locomotives on the railway (all ex-Statfold). The one in the picture below is Hudswell Clarke "Badger" which I think I have driven in the past...
Leaving the impressive railway behind it was time to complete the tour and taste some (more) of the rum. I've had some before and it's lovely stuff!...
Down at the distillery we were told about the rum making and ageing process...
The final part of the tour involved a short film which showcased some archive footage from the days when the plantation was working to its full capacity. This was followed by a short rum tasting session: very nice it was too! Our final port of call was the gift shop where unfortunately we didn't manage to find any miniatures (only large bottles too big to carry home) otherwise I'd have left with some of their fabulous rum! As we wandered back up to our taxi back to the ship in Bridgetown I caught a final snap of the La Meuse hiding behind the water tower. Nice to see you again!...
Well, that's it folks. That's one of my to do places ticked off and, you could say, an ambition fulfilled. The place we heard so much about has now been ticked off! I must say that the Warren family and the SNA team have achieved such a lot in a short amount of time and you can't help but be impressed by the earthworks that have taken place to build the railway. At the moment it runs for around 1.5km but I believe there is a plan in place to extend it by a further 2km in the not too distant future. I wish them every success. It was a lovely place with every area so very well presented. If you're ever in Barbados, drop by St Nicholas Abbey. Thanks all, Sam...

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